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GIO seem reasonable. I will probably be moving a few of our boats to them from QBE when renewals become due.
Another way to to get the fitting bolted on is to use a bolt longer than required, but less than the ID of the boom. From step 3 below you will be able to figure out how much additional length is required, depending on the pliers/grips you have available.
1.Stick the head of the bolt onto anything long enough to reach far enough into the boom. BluTac or plasticine will do the job nicely. The bolt should be at right angles to the support your are using.
2. Feed the bolt down the inside of the boom & push it through the hole. Grab the end of it & feed it through the hole in the towel rail.
3. Hold onto the bolt with pliers so there is a long enough length to thread the nut onto until the end of the bolt protrudes through the nut. Make sure you don’t grip the thread so tight that you crush the thread.
4. Now grip the end of the bolt (vice grips are good & it doesn’t matter if you crush the thread now) & tighten the nut down on to the towel rail.
5. Cut of the protruding end of the bolt once tightened. Remember to use nyloc nuts or two nuts & lock them together.
If you use nyloc you will have to be careful at step 3 that you don’t damage the thread as you will need a fairly firm grip on the bolt.
If you need to use this method for more inaccessible fittings inside spars or buoyancy tanks the rigid support in step 1 & 2 can be replaced by whipping twine, threaded through the hole & attached to the thread of the bolt using heatshrink or pvc tape. The hole will need to be a bit oversize to allow this to pass through – check it all fits befroe pulling the bolt through.
Andrew.
@A Trace of Blue – 1666 wrote:
All,
Personally, I like Mike S’s reminder: ‘… a sailing dinghy that is simple in design and construction and relatively easy and inexpensive to build…’.
It is just another expense, and if you want one, and you cannot make this item yourself, you will have to find someone who will do it for you. That can be expensive, unless the association also starts producing them.
Can the Comittee, when it gets together next, sort this one out also.
Regards . . .
& that goes for the ‘towel rail’ too
It’s for measuring tension in a wire. see e.g. :
http://www.landfallnavigation.com/hlpt2.htmlA cheaper version is also available from Superspars:
http://www.sailboats.co.uk/product~Superspar_Tension_Gauge_254mm_wire_SU-RTGS.html
or the harken alternative…….(better be sitting before you look at the price of this one!!_
http://www.purplemarine.com/Product.aspx?ProductCode=H7850
All work by bending the wire & converting the force used to bend the wire a known amount into the load being carried by the wire.
Sorry to have to open this old topic again, but I now have to fix a broken mainsheet fitting on the floor after the regatta at Albert Park (not my boat – the better 1/2’s!).
The stainless-steel swivel on the keel has broken – due to the leaverage applied by the ‘extension pole’ fitted to raise the height of the ratchet block. I see in this thread that some boats have been fitted with bracing to the extension. By my reading of the latest rules (downloaded from the website 10/7/08) both the extension and thus any bracing are illegal:
Rule 1.11.3 (Options states:
n. Alternative types of control systems (provided maximum purchase limits are not exceeded and
other requirements are met, e.g. mainsheet shall lead through a block on the keel stiffening timber
to the hand).There is no way that a block on the end of a foot long pole can be considered ‘a block on the keel stiffening timber’.
Can we please have a definitive ruling on this before I go to the effort of replacing the broken system.
If the extension is allowed with bracing – what bracing is allowed – where is it allowed to run to/from? So far as I can see it could be (a) a simple brace along the length of the boat off the top of the c/b case/thwart; (b)two diagonals off the thwart wither side of the c/b/ case (how far off the c/l is allowed?); or (c) a brace running the width of the boat parallel to the thwart.
What is allowed?
If such a system is allowed it will be an increase in cost to the boat & thus upset those wanting to keep cost down – perhaps it could be allowed in tandem with getting rid of the ridiculous & expensive towel rail & allowing a simpler, stronger & more reliable rope/velcro system, thus making the changes cost neutral & simlifying the boat a tiny amount.
Can anyone please clarify the position regarding attachment of the final mainsheet block. In the new rules 1.11.3(n) states:
Alternative types of control systems (provided maximum purchase limits are not exceeded and
other requirements are met, e.g. mainsheet shall lead through a block on the keel stiffening timber
to the hand).Where does the last statement come from? The inference is that it is just an example of another ‘requirement’ that may need to be met. I can’t see any specific reference to this requirement elsewhere in the rules. Rule 5.2 states:
then via a floor-attached block to the skipper
With many boats now having an extension tube between the floor & the final mainsheet block such an arrangement would seem to be clearly outwith these two statements – i.e. attached to the keel stiffening timber or floor. I have also seen on the forum (https://www.sabre.org.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1309&highlight=diagonal) that diagonal bracing of the tube to the thwart is also allowed. These seem significant performance advantages over the block attached directly to the keel stiffening. As such their legality should be stated clearly.
Just to revisit this topic. I am in the process of fitting out a new boom & need to clarify the current rule regarding the position of the Vang fitting on the boom. The rules state:
b. The vang boom fitting is measured from the innermost edge of the fitting to the aft
extremity of the mast when boom is fixed onto the mast gooseneck.This appears to allow a fair degree of latitude in the actual bearing surface / attachment point for the vang, depending on the the exact fitting used. The fitting I am using (off an old – measured – boom) has the bearing surface 11 mm from the front edge of the fitting. With that distance I cannot position it so that both the front edge and the bearing surface are within the measurement tolerance so I wish to be absolutely sure which point it is that the measurement is taken from.
Could someone clarify the ‘standard’ boom mentioned above.
The rules state:
7.1 a. The boom shall be made from constant section round aluminium alloy 50mm diameter x 1.5, 2 or 3mm
Chriso says:
I have checked with Proctor that the sections are 65-67mm by 49-51mm amd this is class spec.
Mike then says:
Yep! That is our standard section!
So,… is the Binksmarine ‘Proctor/Selden’ boom class legal or not?
If it isn’t who does sell anodised tube suitable for a Sabre boom?
UPDATE:
I’ve just called Binks & spoken to them (a sabre sailor as well so she knew what she was talking about!). The section they sell is circular, not as Chriso stated above.
Where did you get the veneer? I’m looking for some light coloured veneer, about 0.75×0.5 M. So far all I have been able to find are narrow strips.
I’m not looking for holes – just pointing out the obvious from the point of view of someone new to dealing with sabres. To put it in perspective it is my wife, not I, who sails the sabre. I did the searching around looking for boats & help with maintanance / repairs when needed. Having sailed a number of clasees the Sabre came as a bit of a surprise as to the rules. There are what seem a perfectly good set of rules posted on the website – as for most other clasees (I have mainly sailed ISAF classes so the full rules for them are available on the ISAF site), but as I have discovered there are ‘other’ sets of rules around – primarily the building notes & now it would appear – ‘different’ sets of rules that different people work to.
What surprised me with Mike’s response is that there is obviously another set of rules somewhere with different wording. Replacing the boom may not be much in monetary value, but according to the rules on the website there is nothing wrong with sleeving the boom. What Mike put on the board suggests that if you competed with such a boom you could be disqualified under a set of rules of which you had no knowledge. There is nothing on the website measurements to say that they should not be taken as the definitive set of measurements for the boat. If the ‘Cameron Hooper’ case were held today over a sleeved boom I don’t think the boat could be disqualified.
Talking about a simple boat – it uses that towel rail which I was (luckily) able to get welded up as I work with people who can so ss welding readily. Otherwise I’d have had to purchase a new one ($60?) rather than use about 50cents worth of webbing for a better all round result. Not every ‘new’ thing is more complicated or more expensive.
Andrew.
@Mike Simpson wrote:
This is the relevant Measurement Rule:
7.1 a. The boom shall be made from constant section round aluminium alloy 50mm diameter x 1.5, 2 or 3mm gauge.I think the term “constant section round aluminium alloy” precludes the use of stuffers, sleeves or whatever.
Mike Simpson
Which set of rules is that Mike? The only ones I have seen don’t have a section 7.1a (see https://www.sabre.org.au/documents/Sabremeasurements.pdf or https://www.sabre.org.au/MastBoomMeasurements.html). If this is in the printed rules or building notes this is an excellent example of why the rules need to be consolidated into one publically available document. According to the rules published on the site there is no restriction on the section of the boom & any protest resulting from using these published rules would be interesting to say the least.
I have followed the arguments surrounding the rules / building notes, but in all honesty the Class has far more to loose than gain by not making the definitive rules publically available. Having an incomplete or misleading set on the website is probably even worse. I would suggest as a matter of urgency that the set on the website be reviewed & either removed until the definitive set is posted, or a clear notice posted on them that they are incomplete.
Andrew.
As far as a I can see from the rules so long as the OD is between 50 & 55 mm you can do anything you like. From this I assume that an insert could be placed within the tube, or an external sleeve used. If there is something more in the ‘hidden’ rules (i.e. building notes) this needs to be made public as not all 2nd hand boats come with the building notes!
Andrew.
I agree with Zahir in that as Ryan took a penalty for what he did, you had no reason to lodge a protest. However on the matter of there being:
“nothing in the rules which says you have to protest even when you are sure you were in the right”
Rule 60.1 says:
A boat may
(a) protest another boat, but not for an alleged breach of a rule of
Part 2 unless she was involved in or saw the incident;This means that if someone else sees an incident where no penalty is taken or protest lodged by one of the parties involved, then the third-pary may lodge a protest. The implication of this is that if you are in the right you must state your intent to protest at the time if the offending boat does not take a penalty or retire. If you don’t do this you risk being dragged into a protest anyway.
As an aside, in the incident as described, if Ryan is heading to pass inside you it would not be you calling for bouy room, but him. You would be calling “No bouy room” once the 2-boat-length distance was reached. This is often worth calling, even if a boat hasn’t asked for bouy room as it clarifies the situation.
Andrew.
