[rochelledover74]

@magic232 wrote:

Thanks Jack. I’m intending to bolt ? I thought I might use marine Sika. The under deck stiffeners are quite large around 500 by 150 . What do you think ?
Regards

My question is why bolt?

Screws with epoxy will never leak, boats with silicon will one day leak, so it is a no brainer for me.

How heavy is your boat?
I found I had to put larger timbers under my screws to bring the boat up to min weight 38Kg, even after glassing the boat both outside and in.

[rochelledover74]

@magic232 wrote:

Thanks Jack. Can you expand on the comment with the epoxy assisted install. So you drill a pilot hole for the screw and then ………. ( assume timber hull with 4 mm ply stiffeners under the foredeck for strength ).

Kind regards

John NT soon to be port Phillip

What I would do here, is use 2 more 4 mm piece of ply as well, so in total you have 16mm, this will spread the load over the deck. then drill your pilot hole for the screw, put some epoxy on the screw shaft and screw it down. The only bolts I use are for rudder and foot straps saddles in front tank, but I still use epoxy other than inspection port (or you could remove the inspection port). Epoxy allows for easy removal of fittings, more strength and will never leak. Hope this helps.

[rochelledover74]

@magic232 wrote:

Hi Jack.

Thanks for the link. I’m going to put the cleats on the deck above the centre case bulkhead. If I use the S11 do I use the 13 deg. angle riser with it ?
Cheers

Yes you do, I always screw and epoxy my cleats on ( I buy longer screws than come with them to accomadate the riser, I think they are 8 gauge), in the wooden boat I had some left over ply from rudder box for under the cleats. Glass boats if you have timber already installed, then drill for the screw and counter sink the hole, this prevents gel coat cracking and allows space for more epoxy glue. They have never leaked unlike silicon and bolts, best of luck

[rochelledover74]

@HelterSkelter wrote:

I noticed the Formula Sailcraft article and consider a hull from this mould should not be given an A Class certificate. Frankly there are many hulls out there which are ‘designer hulls’ purposely using the building tolerances to hopefully gain the advantage. Allowable tolerances are there to cater for the inexperience of the amateur builder or a genuine problem during construction. Correct me if I am wrong and if I am then the Rules need to be changed to support this otherwise the class will cease, if it hasn’t already, to be a one design class.

Other one design classes have a master mould for the FRP hulls, from which all certified moulds are cloned. Not hard or expensive to do.

HelterSkelter 1906

I could not agree more with you.

I am not sure why FSC feels the need to change the boat, we have four at the club and they certainly win their fair share of the races.
These boat cost over $15000, so I would be very upset if my boat was out of date after less than a year of spending that kind of money, how would you feel?

I think it is time to put a halt to all this nonsense, put the rule back the way it was and approve the builders and the current molds.

This would allow the class to keep progressing and give the association time to look at if this rule really does need changing.
I know of people putting off purchasing a new Sabre until this issue is resolved and who can blame them with $15000 for a new boat, not an investment you spend in a hurray.

[rochelledover74]

Hi

They are made and sold by John Dixon,
IECON Boats
2/15 Kearney Street
Bayswater
Ph : 9729 1188
Fax: 9729 0198
Contact John Dixon
[email protected]

You can also use a rope strop as an altunative see Chris’s Fitout guide:
https://www.sabre.org.au/australia_documents/Chris_Dance_Sabre_Rigging_Guide.pdf

[rochelledover74]

Hi Barry

I was also under the impression that the new National measurer was going to take submission and discuss any issues with the state measures in Adelaide and therefore the rule changes where on hold until that time. I was under the impression there where a couple of the new changes that needed some more thought before implementation. Although I must confess I may have misunderstood Mr Ian James motion, so my apologies if I have it wrong and please correct me if I do.

I would like to thank the previous committee for all the great work that you all did over the last year, rule changes are always hard and I think you all did a great job. I would especially like to thank the Jones Clan who ran a fantastic national and we are all very proud of their huge efforts.

[rochelledover74]

@Aten wrote:

Has anyone noticed that these new rules are written by and for a (the) fibreglass boat builders?

Yep and I ask what is the advantage to the class, I can only see disadvantages.

Here is a sneak preview of the Sabre of the future!!

[attachment=0:20ee07hp]4294489.jpg[/attachment:20ee07hp]

[rochelledover74]

@Aten wrote:

I think this has been said before but a simple solution would be to only use real ply boats for the molds. This will ensure special Manipulation can not take place. Perhaps even have the boats registered for at least a year before a mold can be taken to ensure it is a real sabre.

Not such a bad idea, certainly better option, but I would have to agree with others, why when there are aready so many glass boats would you want to use a wooden one unless you where trying to gain an advantage, which is simple not what the Sabres are about.

Sure we need some flexibility in home built wood boats, but it has no place or is it nessesery in glass boat production. It is far better to have all the boats the same and with glass this can be achieved and should be.

[rochelledover74]

@Aten wrote:

I have nothing against glass boats. I have not owned a wood boat since my flying ant days. I am just concerned what the fibreglass boats could potentialy do to a class like this.
Obviously most of the guys spruiking glass boats in this thread already own one or get some finacial gain from glass boats. Correct me if I am wrong.

Can any one justify the low maintainence arguement for a glass boat?

Craig

Hi Craig

I have built wooden Sabres and I enjoyed sailing it so much. But as I used it 3 to 4 time per week summer and winter. This extensive use caused the need to repainted and re-vanished the boat every six months despite being both two pack.

The maintenance for me was without doubt the reason for buy my fibreglass Sabre and I love the ease of it for me.

The good thing about the Sabre at the moment is Glass and wooden boats are comedpative with each other. I have seen this change very quickly in other classes when you allow fibreglass boats to manipulate the rules for speed, as can only be done in a glass boat.

So the issue for me is we keep a good hold on the variations of the boat, which I was under the impression was already in place when I read the Sabre Build manual, but it appears this may not be the case.

Lets not loose what makes the Sabre a great boat, wood and fibreglass boat that can sail against each other is very rare!

[rochelledover74]

If you are in WA then the cheapest is YWA, go here

http://autocover.nautilusinsurance.com.au/html/default.cfm?siteStyle=WA

I would expect the other states associations to have a similar offer. These are the cover options:

Third party $10 million liability cover only
Premium = $50

Up to $5,000 sum insured Trailer, trolley hull, mast & sails,
including $10 million liability cover
Premium = $145 and Excess = $100

Up to $10,000 sum insured, including $10 million liability cover
Premium = $185 and Excess = $100

Up to $20,000 sum insured, including $10 million liability cover
Premium = $250 and Excess = $200

[rochelledover74]

This might be worth a look as it has some photos of a Sabre going together.

http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Sabre-Dinghy/

I used to own the boat you have on your site, The Blue Tomato, great boat.

[rochelledover74]

If it is as good as your last video, I can’t wait Lea. Good luck and I will see if we can take some video for you.

[rochelledover74]

@ronny_f73 wrote:

Jack
Why did you wire and bend the front up before wiring up the side of the boat?? (ie your 2nd photo).. I have been looking at your site..

I do not believe it would matter which way you did it, but the advantage was we could wiegh down the base to make the bend as we steamed the bow into place. Fortunetly I have a steamer, which I brought from one of those cheap shops that you use for cleanning. It is great for doing the bow and the side decks.

I personally did not follow the book, but I am a qualified Ship Wright. In fact I would recommend against following the steps in the book, there are somethings that are better done out of place.

The best move we made was to cut the jig to the shape of the rocker so there is no need for concer about the boat rocker when building.

[rochelledover74]

@Slow Hand wrote:

Hi,
has anyone used dynacloth, either on inside or outside?
any tips, advantages, disadvantges?

thanks
sue / slow learner

Dynacloth soaks up to much resin I would recommend a close weave fibreglass cloth to reduce weight.

Jack
1877

[rochelledover74]

@ronny_f73 wrote:

I.. I am also looking at building a new one ASAP and this would be just so i can keep sailing

We are currently building 3 boats in my shed, it has taken approx 3 weeks for each boat of very part time work to get them to painting stage.

You can see our handy work at http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Sailing/General/Sabre-Dinghy/

Good luck with the build

Jack
1877

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