[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Ronnie
We have a glass club boat in Tassie with ply deck with sail no 999 that was built in SA.

Cheers
matt
1697
Zahir

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Fiona
We have a great team from Tassie who aim to have more fun than anyone else-
Thus far, according to my info, the sailors are
Peter Cook
Chris Keil
Matt Westland
Daniel Pritchard
Jake King
Mike King
Andrew Bradshaw
Caitlyn Drury
Phillipa Szabo
Eric Szabo
Ron Bugg
Arie Westland.

Cheers
mat
1697
Zahir

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi,

I haven’t had much luck with building the SA Sabre Nationals attendees list.

Matt from Tassie- can you please list who will be coming from TAS as I think you mentioned there would be 12 ? who are they ?

SA, QLD, NSW – can someone pls add the list

Many thanks
Fiona

[lamarstrehlow74]

Helen
My experience has been -stick with single pack paint.
If you are tempted to use two pack materials be aware they cannot be applied over single pack paints.The thinners in 2pack is so volatile it dissolves any single pack paint underneath and the resulting mess brings tears.

I’ve had great success with paving paint which has good adhesion and withstands knocks a little better than house enamels.

If your bare patches have been caused by stresses eg end of internal stringer it would be wise to add patches of glass as Mike suggested.
Use a small grinder or sanding disc to dig out the ply approx 1mm deep to allow somewhere for the glass to go. Then fill ,sand and paint over for an invisible finish.
If the patches are from normal dings and bumps then the glass treatment isn’t necessary.
Beware with the filler. Once you have used epoxy resin you need to use epoxy based fillers. Polyester fillers like car body filler wont set very well over epoxy.

Best luck
Matt.
1697
Zahir

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Andrew
The place I sourced veneers from was
Sharp Ply Pty Ltd
1171 Boundary Road
Wacola 4076
Sunshine Coast.
Ph 07 3271 4511

I was after some Qld. cedar. which they were able to provide at leaf size of 200 x 2400 (this about the max you will get)

Not sure about lighter coloured woods except if you want Celery top pine from Tassie which is an exquisite honey coloured timber but a bit heavy for lightweight boat-building .Let me know if you want details. The locals here cut some beautiful veneers from Tassie woods.

Cheers
matt.

[lamarstrehlow74]

Ashley and Mike

Thanks for organising the rules to be put up on the site. It should help clarify things for owners.

Cheers
matt
1697
Zahir.

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Steve

I called them 2 weeks ago and they said they will post us invoices mid July !

Regards
Fiona

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi All,

I would like to kick off a list on the Sabre website of those going to Adelaide Nationals to help determine the fleet numbers. If you are going please and I have forgotten you pls add to my list with the next number in the list !

Thanks, Fiona (Vic President)

1 ) Fiona McCulloch
2 ) Ashley Parkinson
3 ) Andrew Graham
4 ) Robbie Graham
5 ) Wayne Bates
6 ) Russell Rooney
7 ) Phil Johnson
8 ) Steve Early
9 ) Chris Dance
10) ?

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Mike
Thanks for your help with this.
I have contacted Phillip Johnson to clarify exactly how to measure a webbing connection.

Regarding review of rules-

Given the number of queries in this forum I wonder if publishing just the two pages of rules to go with the measurements on the website might be a solution. I can see the association’s point of view in that it wants to ensure all new boats go through the correct channels.
There is no way someone can build just from the rules and measurements.
It would also encourage those who like to tinker to stay within the rules.

Cheers
matt.
1697
Zahir

[lamarstrehlow74]

Gee Andrew, your seem really fired up about measurment rules and any possible holes you can find.

Is there a reason why you wouldn’t just replace the boom given it costs around $60 to get a new one.

If the boom is bending its probably at the end of its life anyway, and failure of a critical part like that out at sea could result in an injury or similar disaster to the sailor.

I’m not sure why you’d want to make a simple (and cheap) boat complicated.

Al

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Andrew

The rules expressly outlaw stiffening in the mast…..they don’t mention any restriction on the boom. Then again the rules also state if it doesn’t say you can …then you can’t. I suspect you can’t stiffen the boom.
In my experience excessive bending is caused by corrosion around fittings which weakens the boom.
The thin section booms, with correspondingly higher tempers to give enough strength, are susceptible to failing if corrosion sets in.
To minimise corrosion use corrosion reducing paste between stainless and alloy (Duralac) or similar.
Washing well with fresh water will also help.

Cheers
matt
1697
Zahir

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Steve
Every variation is possible however most top sailors seem to have settled on having the cleats on the edge of the bulkhead.
Which cleats to use is a little more problematic.
Some people favour cam cleats as they don’t slip.
Others use plastic clam cleats as they are light, cleat very quickly and are cheap…but they do wear out quickly.
Check out the National champ…he uses aluminium clam cleats as they last longer than the plastic clams and have the advantage when easing that you only have to drop the line into the cleat to have it cleat securely.
With cams you usually have to pull on and down to recleat.

Hope this gives some help.

Cheers
matt
1697
Zahir

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Sue

My opinion is that it can work in the Sabre but not quite as well as a Laser for two reasons. Firstly and most importantly the sail cannot be let out to the optimum amount. Secondly the laser’s round bilge hull has less drag when changing course ie through transitions between going by the lee and heading up onto a broad reach. The Sabre’s chines seem to give more drag .

Having said that i am convinced that it is faster in some conditions-namely when there are enough wind and waves to allow surfing directly downwind.
It also allows for quick choices to be made in avoiding waves . Eg if there is a big wave just in front there is no value in stuffing the bow straight into the wave. Unlike a Laser the Sabre with it’s bouyant bow won’t nosedive but it will just go slow. Being able to head up or go by the lee gives more choices in waves.
In big wind conditions, by the lee can be safer ie less chance of capsizing so long as the sailor has practiced first. It does feel a bit spooky at first but once a feel has been established it becomes okay and comfortable.
Because the wind flows across the sail in one direction it is less inclined to induce the death rolls.
One other thing I realised is that having the mast aft relative to the side stay position has a big impact on how far the boom can swing out. Boats that have their mast right foward on the tolerance see disadvantaged…but then most fast Sabres have their mast towards the aft tolerance anyway.
Lastly we tried some two boat tuning to gauge if the technique was in fact faster. What it showed was that by the lee in itself didn’t seem to be much faster. What made the difference was using a weaving technique-broad reaching and then by the lee to avoid or use waves to make best VMG.
With good transition technique,minimal rudder and clever use of waves the difference was significant. The bigger the wind the more difference it made.
Then again others may have a different perspective.

Cheers
matt.
1697
Zahir

[lamarstrehlow74]

whats the going rate for phils kits?

[lamarstrehlow74]

Hi Mike

Good to see you organizing a review of building notes and rules.
The recent change to rules which allow choice of fittings but measurement of vang still requiring use of an expensive and hard to source fitting is an issue that needs clarifying. Ideally before the Nationals as people building at present have no way of deciding where to place vang on boom.

A simple diagram, like the Spiral class, with a max measurement would suffice. It would not make measuring onerous as the boom is currently required to be attached to mast to make other measurements.
As the failed motion implied, this measure is not critical to performance or integrity of the spars, so it shouldn’t be a big deal to fix.

As someone building a new Sabre and keen to use a webbing strap to connect onto boom I seek your advice. Would it be okay to extend the line of the current measurement up through the boom to find a new max. measure for the centreline of the vang?

Cheers
matt
1697
Zahir.

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