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Sorry. I should have responded earlier. The measurement you refer to is taken from the keel. That is the outside of the hull. Just measure inside and add the thickness of the ply. It only refers to the centre so you can trim the bulkhead at the sides to come flush with the decks at the gunwale.
Harold Medd
SSAA National Measurer.The Sabre rules are being revised to provide more certainty. Currently the rigging is controlled by the Construction Notes which refer to wire. The Construction notes are currently part of the Sabre rules so wire is required for the stays.
The rules regarding the mast step changed in Feb 2014 to allow a mast track to be used which can be adjusted off the water. The track I use is a Seldon.Harold Medd
SSAA National measurerHi Peter
This is a common problem particularly for heavier guys. It usually occurs where we sit on the side deck so is probably the result of regular flexing. I have fixed our club boat very successfully using the method you propose. Its important to make sure you get all the varnish or paint off as resin does not like paint. it produces a slightly roughed surface which is very nice to prevent you sliding around the boat but not so attractive as a nice varnish finish.Harold Medd
SSAA National MeasurerSorry you didn’t get a reply. Must check the forum more often.
Sabres are tough little boats and don’t have a lot of problems if looked after with a bit of care.
The worst problem is any form of rot in the ply. This is most likely to occur in the flat parts of the hull where water may have been left lying for a while. The ply should have some resonance when tapped if it is in good condition. I’ve not seen that problem very often. Another problem is the glass tape separating from the hull along the inside of the cockpit. This shows up as white patches where there is air behind the tape. Its fixable but means a bit of work.
Cracks in the decking to the side tanks are quite common particularly where the helm sits. This is not a disaster as it can be fixed with a light layer of fibreglass or just sanded and varnished. Avoid a boat which has any of the joints opening up.
Ideally you should get a boat which has had a glass skin put over the water contact area of the hull.
Check that the mast is sealed as required by measurement. Older masts often leak at the fittings or are perforated and it makes righting after a capsize very difficult for lighter weight sailors.
I hope this info is too late and that you got a good Sabre. Let me know if you are still looking. The info might be of use to someone else.
Harold Medd
National MeasurerHi Ilan
I see you haven’t had much help. I’ve never tried it but I think you should be able to do it by using a build up of narrow sections small enough to pass through the inspection hatches. I know some professionals glass the deck on that way so the mast support should be possible. You would glass the sections in place with a slight overlap so that the whole thing becomes one stiff panel. For the top of the panel try putting the resin on first then applying the glass to it. It might work well for the ends too.
All the Best
Harold MeddHi Ryan
I have spoken to the guys in WA. we would love to take you up on your offer. Can you get in touch with me by email at [email protected] and give me your address and phone numbers so that we can take it further.
Harold
Hi Ryan
The sabre Association is currently working on producing a digital copy of the Sabre templates to enable cnc cutting. We are taking patterns from one of the more recent boats as the original templates are now a bit out of date and were never very accurate. WA are working on this and have good templates. They are just looking for someone to digitise them. I can’t tell you how long it will be before we can issue them but we are making progress. I would not recommend digitising the current paper plans you would have to do a lot of trimming after you produce you cnc parts. I’m sure there is interest which is why we are working on it. If you are in WA or Victoria let me know on [email protected].
Sabres haven’t been built from 5mm ply for quite some time as I’m told it is no longer available. The current preferred material is 4mm gaboon ply and you use a skin of fibreglass on both sides to make up the thickness. you can glass the inside before bending but wait until the hull is formed before doing the outside as you will not be able to bend it. Even 4mm is not easy to find. I can tell you where to get it in Victoria but not other states.
Harold Medd
National MeasurerHi Wayne
I built my own ply Sabre and got advice from a professional. Glass the inside of the floor panels when they are flat from the transom to just about 50mm past the Centrecase bulkhead. Go further and you will find the panel too stiff to bend. You can stop just inside the side tank too. The forward part of the hull is inherently stiff from its shape so you don’t need glass there. I used a cheap plastic spreader roughly 100mm wide, the sort of thing you get from Bunnings for a dollar. The resin chips off when set so you can use it time and time again. Make sure you use as little resin as you can leaving a clear texture from the glass to keep the weight down.
When you have your hull largely complete with bulkheads and side tanks in place you can coat the outside. Again go for a slight texture and use a high build undercoat to smooth the finish. You do not need to go past the centre case bulkhead for strength but you might improve the impact resistance in case of a crash.
One other word of advice if you haven’t started or have not got very far. Build yourself a ‘strong back’. Thats not to keep you fit but to make sure the rocker measures. A ‘strong back’ is a very stiff beam along the centre line of the hull which is cut precisely to the rocker profile you want to produce. Build your boat on top of that and make sure the rocker does not pull away from it. Its good to have a supporting frame attached to that to stabilise the boat as you build. Ply boats do tend to have a bit of a mind of their own and move as you build them so keep checking that and all the other measurements.
Another word of advice. Check out the west system brochure on filleting the joints. Makes a very much stronger joint of the stitch and glue. Email me on [email protected] if you need more help.Enjoy the building and then the sailing
HaroldCraig
Where is TCYC. It may be a long way in the future but as Victorian it would be nice to know.
HaroldHi Matt
If the boat has already been measured there is no need for a re measurement unless you effect significant changes.
In Victoria when we measure an older boat we allow for rules which were in force at the time.
The latest rule changes state that material sizes are given as a guide only and are not mandatory.The probability is that your boat has a 5mm ply hull. I am told that 5 mm ply disappeared from the market so more battens were added. Hope that helps.
Harold Medd
State Measurer VictoriaHi Julian
I use a hand router. Set the dpeth of the cut exactly to the thickeness of the ply and you can run the router all around the edges. You can then run it across the deck to reveal the stringers and bulkheads. You can also use the router to strip off the gunwhale before removing the deck. I don’t use any nails to put the deck down. Just clamp the outer edge and use battens across the boat to wedge down the inner edge of the deck.
Harold
Vic State measurerHi Craig
Its not correct to say they are all the same section with different supplier names. There are subtle differences in the section particularly in the location and thickness of the web. Its only a millimeter or so but a plug from one mast will not necessarily fit another. The only way i can suggest is to check any ofcuts from a known supplier you can find against yours. The big problem with the mast is making sure your sail is cut for your mast. I saw a big difference when I corrected that problem.
HaroldHi Magic
I’m Vic state measurer. Bret’s method does work but for measurement we use the suspended method. Remember the minimum weight includes all fixed equipment and it does add up. Toe straps,pintels, cleats, elastic, strop in fact anything that can’t easily be removed. You probably want your bare hull to be about 38 to 39kg before painting.
When I made my first boat I managed to balance it on end on a set of electronic bathroom scales but I had to be quick because they only gave a reading for a few seconds
As one of my friends said he could spend 40 hours on a centreboard and rudder.
HaroldA lot has been written about the new Formula Sailcraft hull which is being promoted on their web site. Most of is not based on sound information and has caused considerable unnecessary concern amongst those who care about our great Sabre class.
At the request of Formula Sailcraft the National Measurer, Nick Mouat and myself as Vic State Measure, measured the plug for the new Formula Sailcraft hull. Of particular interest to us was determining whether there had been any manipulation to the hull which could be deemed to be outside of the rules.
We found that the new Formula Sailcraft plug fully complies with all the measurements and fully complies with the ‘spirit of the Sabre’ as expressed in clause 3.2 of the FRP Construction Notes. 3.2 says “the FRP Sabre must emulate, as nearly as possible,the construction, shape and performance characteristics of a fully complying plywood boat.”
There are absolutely no grounds on which boats made from this new plug could or should be refused a measurement certificate under the old rules or under the revised rules.
If anyone still has concerns I suugest they read Andrew Graham’s comments. Andrew is National Vice President and a passionate supporter and protector of the Sabre Class. He owns a YMS.
Harold Medd
Vic State MeasurerJohn
I have done this with some advice from experts and the good publications from Botecote and West. I used Botecote and had no trouble with painting. Putting the resin on the ply first is a technique used where the work is at an angle and the glass needs to be held in place. It is not easy to get it flat that way. Spread the resin out over the glass with the cheap plastic spreaders you can buy in Bunnings. Make sure the resin is as thin as you can get it as resin is heavy. I was advised to glass the panels with just one layer before assembling them but to stop at the centrecase bulkhead so as not to reduce the bendability.
When you get to glassing the joints make sure you fillet the corners first as is shown in the West booklet. This makes a very much stronger joint. I know I tested it.
Harold
