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fitzwarryne,
I am not sure what the Association’s Official Stand is on copies of the book. My own personal view on that topic is that if you own a boat, Timber/GRP or Composite, you should be entitle to have a copy of the handbook.
If you built your own, you should have bought a copy from the Association. You cannot get a Sail Number any other way. The Sail Number is what you are actually paying for here, not the cost of the Book.
If you purchased a boat new from a builder, or second hand, you should have received the original copy of the book issued for your boats Sail Number and construction from the person you bought it from.
If you have lost/damaged your book or bought second hand and did not receive your original book, there should be no reason why you cannot go to the Association and request a replacement copy, which should be heaps cheaper (Printing and Postage costs only possibly) than a new issue, as you are not asking for a new sail number, just a replacement book. This would be safer than borrowing a mates and copying it yourself, as a new Association produced copy will have all the latest ammendments.
Regards . . .
Willy . . .
All said, I have only one point to add.
For a single handed boat, a Sabre at 41Kg is a hell of a easier to manage than a Laser Hull ant near 70Kg.
Willy . . .
For Info,
The Sabre uses the same Mast Blank Section as the 125, Puffin Pacer, JayDee and Sygnet.
Most state Associations have a Marine Fitting Shop in their State that has some stock, just contact one of them and ask if their association has stock somewhere if your State Sabre Association has none. I had no trouble getting ‘Sabre’ mast sections in WA from the holders of the 125 Association stock.
Regards . . .
Willy . . .
Hi All,
Thought It was about time I waded into the debate as well.
Introductions first.
Sabre 1665 – ‘Risk of Decision’ is the WA based boat that Phil mentioned as being under construction. Hull construction complete, currently waiting final coat of paint on hull and Varnishing of upper deck. 1666 – (Yet to be named) will follow shortly, but as I am Navy and currently posted to an operational Submarine, it will be mid next year before 1666 gets started.
As part of my first ever boat construction, I am verifying the existing construction notes, and am already in the process of unofficially rewriting and updating the ‘Sabre Construction and Fitting Out Notes’ to reflect current products and fitting out guides.
I appologise to all for the slowness of this self imposed project, but as I have said, I am posted to an operational Submarine, and it cuts into my free time at the moment.
That said, It must be noted that
* My document is not officially sanctioned by the association. I am doing it by my own choice, with the intention of handing it, on completion, to the Association Free of charge and with all ownership rights, for Review and if approved, adoption as the 2005(6) update to the Construction Manual.
* I am not changing any rules. All I am doing is updating the existing manual to reflect the modern and currently available materials (eg, West System / BoteCote epoxy Resins and other materials); Re-arranging some steps in the construction sequence to allow a correct flow sequence (which has been nutted out with a lot of help from Phil Johnson in Melbourne, Trevor Baker in Adelaide, and a couple of others); and I will be updating the Fitting Out Guide as well, and Yes, I’m an Aussie, so I will not appologise for only putting Ronstan and alternative Riley Fittings in the guide where possible. Additionally, The way the document is formatted will change, but you will see it when it is done.
OK That finally gets me to why I’m here in the first place.
Having just built a timber boat (with floor battens) I cannot see what the problem is in doing it. It was not hard at all thanks to some simple advice from Phill. And the rules are the rules, and the timber boat must have floor battens. Get over it.
As to the towel Rail fitting – Yep, Go to Binks they do good work, and as they do make them, no one can say a commercially available Towel Rail is not available. So what – it is not a Ronstan Part. Whats the problem.
Or, you can make your own. The rod is 316 stainless 1/4 inch solid rod, the end pieces are 3 hole Ronstan toe strap plates bent at Right Angles in the centre – all you need is access to a Tig Welder or a mate with one. Heck, Dinghy builders have been inovating their own modified fittings for years. Trevor Baker is responsible for the idea behind the black nylon slide part seen on the Binks fitting. You can also just get a 40mm bit of Stainless tube slightly larger internal diameter than the 1/4 inch rod – weld a larger/longer shackle to it at right angles (tube inside the U), and put it on the rod before you weld the second end piece on.
As to all the arguments about fittings – REMEMBER – ‘The fitting out Guide’ is exactly that, A GUIDE. The only thing that the rules specify is the position of some fittings – not exactly which fitting (except the towel Rail) must be used. If you want Series 30 main sheet blocks, you can use series 30, If you don’t mind the extra weight of a 50mm block use them, as long as you place them in the correct position IAW the rules.
When I finish my Update and submit it to the Association for review and discussion, the ‘fitting out guide’ will still only be that, a guide.
Next one: Access to the Construction and Fitting Out Notes.
I am not sure what the Association’s Official Stand is on copies of the book. My own personal view on that topic is that if you own a boat, Timber/GRP or Composite, you should be entitle to have a copy of the handbook.
If you built your own, you should have bought a copy from the Association. You cannot get a Sail Number any other way. The Sail Number is what you are actually paying for here, not the cost of the Book.
If you purchased a boat new from a builder, or second hand, you should have received the original copy of the book issued for your boats Sail Number and construction from the person you bought it from.
If you have lost/damaged your book or bought second hand and did not receive your book, there should be no reason why you cannot go to the Association and request a replacement copy, which should be heaps cheaper (Printing and Postage costs only possibly) than a new issue, as you are not asking for a new sail number, just a replacement book. This would be safer than borrowing a mates and copying it yourself, as a new Association produced copy will have all the latest ammendments.
Well, Thats my say . . .
Before anyone asks, No – My project re-write of the manual is not for public or advanced viewing. The Association will choose how they wish to put it out for review and discussion when it is complete and I have handed it to them, be it mid next year or later.
Maree,
I would happily nominate to take one of the positions, Preferably Secretary, but until I get a shore based posting, I cannot do so, as it would be a disadvantage to the Association when I am not contactable and have no access to the net. Maybe after June 06.
Regards . . .
Willy . . .
Hi Maree,
I thought Shane would have brought his new boat down from NSW?
I haven’t had any entries from QLD to date, but you never know?
We can have the AGM on the 2nd January, what time where you thinking? We have racing at no earlier than 1pm that day.
Cheers
Andrew Bradshaw
SSAT – SecretaryHi All
To date the following interstate entries have been received:
W. Bates
Albert Riley
B. Eastgate
A. Little
A. Graham
B. Wright
Alan Riley
R. Gale
P. Johnson
M. Early
N. Farrell
D. FrancisThe following people’s entries haven’t been received:
(These are the ones I am aware of that may be competing)
P. Stallbaum
J. Dixon
S. Early
L. Raymond
R. Rooney
M. Johnson
J. Petschel
I. WarnerWe should have approx. 20 boats from Tassie competing, which should make a great competative fleet of around 40 boats!!!!!!!!!!
Cheers
Andrew Bradshaw
SSAT – SecretaryWith further response to the chine and the rules and mesurements i originaly started with the mesurements printed off the net but have last night re printed the hull mesurements and found the chine to sheer at the transom had two diferent mesurements. The print layout had also changed. I then looked at my building notes to find the later to be right. My mistake to not check with the building notes but i gues coming from the association site i presumed my orignal mesurements would be right. my mistake
tim
I note with interest that the Minnow Association and Ronstan have just launched a fitting out guide fir the Minnow.
http://wwwshop.com.au/minnows/minnow_gear.pdf
Why not see if Ronstan would like to do the same for teh Sabre – and we could then replace the 1970’s Fico version….
There seems to be an underlying tone that would suggest there needs to be some action on the part of the Sabre executive to revamp the class rules to make them more easily accessible, understandable and to bring them into line with other classes.
One of the key issues that I see, is that in one discussion within this forum there is an outcry because someone wants to remove the batterns in the floor of the Sabre (no speed, manouverabilty etc advantage, will not outdate boats) and in another discussion Tim Heaney has identified that he believes he is able to move a chine (subsequently flattening the rocker aft of the centre board case) by 30-40mm (massive potential speed, manouverabilty etc advantage, will definantly outdate boats). I cannot believe that flattening the rocker by 30-40mm is in the intent of the rules but has not received the same responce.
If the Sabre Assoc’ is looking into an update of the class rule, I am happy to volunteer time to the exercise. If someone wants to post an email address I would be happy to send you my contact details.
I belive some builders have played with lowering the aft section of the chine. Having a play i belive it is posible fairing from the max chine mesurements to the transom to add 35 to 40 mm to the transom. this is quiet a change from the boats at my club which follow close to the templates. the idear is to flaten the aft from the center plate back. is this somthing that has been done and if so was this a succes or a move in the wrong direction or am i taking it too far maybe 20 to 25 mm is more what i should be looking at. allso keen to hear of any other hints that may be about.
thanke tim
No problem.
My only advice would be to contact Fiona via her mobile, I know shes not checking her normal email account at the moment.
Ashley
