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Hi all,
I constructed my dolly such that the dolly will always hit the ground before the transom.
Where do you live?
Regards . . .
OK, Here we go.
Just to save all the confusion, I did something anyone else could have done right from the start and rang Binks Directly and verified the facts.
1. The Sabre Mast Section at Binks is a Alcan K64621 (formally Comalco E11466 – but it is the same section). It just happens to appear in the Proctor Spars Section of their website, as that is where all the Spars, regardless of origin, appear – even the Goldspar Sections. This, if I understood correctly, is because that part of the business is called the Proctor Spar Shop.
2. The Boom section is a standard 50mm straight tube, annodised. This type of section is also available, quite often heaps cheaper at any good Steel/Aluminium Supplies business; you can often get a 6m section for the same price as some Yachting Shops charge for a section long enough for a Sabre boom. Again – Ring around.
3. If the guy in Moorabbin is the guy I spoke to last year when I was still living in WA. He had some interesting info on current Sabre/125/Pacer/JD Mast Sections. Evidently, there is a batch that was made up by the 125 Assoc, that a lot of places took on as stock, which were made of a different grade of aluminium to the batch he had made.
He went up a grade of aluminium to get a stiffer, stronger section, but still used the same die and therefore the same shaped section, as a lot of people were having trouble with the 125 Assoc batch sections – They were bending to easily.
Problem, His sections as a result are a bit more expensive – about $50 from memory, though may have been a bit more or less.
Again, ring him and check.
Hope this solves all the questions. The Mast sections are also readily available at Boating Hardware in O’Connor (WA).
Regards . . .
Hey Matt, I do pretty much the same as you, but I glass the inside of both panels, leaving the butt strap area unglassed. Join them, Bend and butstrap.
I found no problem in pulling the bow together like this, and it was easier than my first Sabre where I used 6mm in the floor. (Will never do that again though).
Gee Wizz,
I never realised there so much went into setting dates for the nationals. I always thought they just blind folded the Commodore of the host club and threw darts at a calendar until two stuck somewhere within the Christmas school holiday dates. How wrong I was.
For info, having formally driven Trucks for a living, another very dangerous time to drive is at Sunrise. The reasoning works something like this.
At night, your eyes see only what is lit up by your headlights, and as such has a lot less information to process. Like a computer sitting almost idle.
As the sun rises, you may not realise it, but your brain has to suddenly start processing a bucket load more info, like the cow in the paddock that you took no notice of at all, the clouds in the sky, the trees on the side of the hill that you would not have even seen in the dark.
If you have been driving near all night, just stopping for fuel, your brain has been working at low capacity and like a computer, a sudden massive increase in incoming data can easily cause an overload and shut down.
Imagine being wide awake one second and out asleep like switching off a light the next.
The 6pm – middnight road toll is, as much as some will say otherwise, in many cases alcohol related, drinks after work, the night club or pub etc.
Most of the Sunrise prangs have no alcohol or drug related findings.
I was lucky, very lucky just once, and since then I always stop for a nap for a couple of hours as soon as the sky starts to lighten.
Fi,
Fiona Wilcox will also be going to Adelaide,
We are yet to decide where we will sail this year, but it looks like Black Rock to give Fiona the most opportunity to get her boat (Miss D. Meanor – 1665) Tuned up better – It sailed like a dog at the states, but it was launched the morning of the first race, had way to little mast rake and an old sail.
It is possible we may also have room on the trailer for a second hull if anyone in Melbourne is interested in sharing a tow/the drive and fuel costs. The trailer is designed to carry two Sabres, and a beach dolly will be supplied as it is customised to the trailer
I have a single plate / wide saddle on top of the boom with a rope strop looped through it. The rope ties off on each side of the block.
This allows it to swing around the boom and not twist the boom against the pull of the sail in the process.
Works for me and was deemed legal at measuring.
I had a chance to try the loose forestay and one shroud method and it worked beautifully for both raising and lowering. It sounded a little risky, but it really is remarkably simple and safe once you see it work.
Thanks, Matt.
Thanks Phill,
I made good sense of your notes and gave it a go yesterday. I had troubles raising the mast by myself, but I was able to lower it.
I think it was partly because it was on the road trailer (I don’t have a beach trolley yet) and therefore the deck was a bit higher than is comfortable. That and the simple fact that, as you said, it will take some practice.
Thanks Mike,
I sort of suspected that may be the case, but thought it best to check.
I’d like to come to the State Titles, so I will make sure she’s absolutely up to code by then. But for the moment, I’ll be happy with just keeping her upright in club races.
The problem with Wayne is that he sails better with a hangover. For him the Sabre Cup is only a thing of dreams.
Fisty.
Fisty here with a warning. I have been training very hard so that I can defend the Sabre Cup. I am fully commited so that we can bring that monster of a trophy back to Tasmania. Some details of my training program:
– Every morning I headbutt a brickwall until I think I’m Ghandi.
– To increase the chance of having massive hangovers in QLD I have toned down my training to drinking only six nights a week. This way a full week of drinking will be a major shock to the system which will result in some appaling hangovers. My night off is a big sacrifice but as I said: I’m commited.
– I have developed a new way of sailing. It is called RPS. When there is a decision to be made, for example left side or right side of the course, my two hands play each other in Rock, Paper, Scissors to determine my chosen strategy. It beats thinking.
– I have a newly reconstructed shoulder which is prone to pop out.
– I never sail. Never. I live over 1000km from my boat. Sometimes I get in a cold shower and rip up $20 notes to remind me of the sensation.
Thats all the secrets for now.
Fisty.
Boonie for ever.With respect to towl rails, There is nothing wrong with them. As long as you have access to someone who can TIG weld, they cost stuff all to get made.
If you dont like the nylon slide fitting like Binks Marine make, you can add a small stainless slide fitting.
Before you make the Towl rail, get a 30-35mm length of stainless tube just bigget than the rail. A Largish (RF618 or 619 I think I used) Standard D Shackle is welded with the tube sitting in the bottom of the U so that the shackle stands up at right angles to the Rail when fitted. The shackle holds the sail. Simple and no wear on the sail.
You can get fancy and drill out the pin holes to take a Toggle Pin (RF115x1) and also add a smaller shackle RF150 or similar, welded at 45deg up and to the rear of the main shacle to hold a small pully block for the outhaul.
Anyway, just a thought.
If anyone wants to see one, send me your email address and I will send a pic
Willy . . .
Mike,
WRT the proposed rule changes, they will need to word them very carefully. If a note is added stating that ‘any fittings can be used’, then that would technically make my prefered ‘T-Ball’ fitting legal.
Regardles of the outcome, I would be happy with my alternative prefered Vang fitting and use a webbing strap. I just wish it would all get finalised.
On the proposals mentioned in the discussions WRT seperating the Construction notes and the Measurement Rules, This is the most sensible thing I have read anywhere on the Sabre Forum. (That means the person who first thought of it and proposed it will probably get thrown out of the association for being sensible, and it will then never happen)
I am still plodding along with my second boat (Spouse will not allow me to give away the name yet). It is about to get decks. I have been revising and refining my rewrite of the construction notes as I go. Lots of help and advice from Phil J along the way, and would be happy to submit them as a ‘Construction Guide’ that can be downloaded at leasure.
I would love to have a go at doing the ‘Measurement Rules’ if they are seperated, and can supply a copy of the ‘Payne-Mortlock Sailing Canoe’ Rules that I did as an example of the format I would use.
Regards . . .
Willy . . .
Catwalk,
As far as cordage goes, the book only gives that info as a recomendation. You can really use any type/weight of cordage you wish, anywhere you wish on the boat.
I use 4mm prestretch or spectra for the forestay on our boats.
There is no rule, except common sence, stopping you from using 16mm vectran if you really wished, it would just be overkill though.
