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Where to now!
Now the Resolutions have been passed, we must work within them whether we agree or not.
We must hope that those who have charged themselves with drafting the text of the Rules understand the preciseness required. Certainly the Resolutions were loosely written despite comments by members pointing out problems in the early stages. These comments were largely ignored. After speaking with builders I am not convinced there was meaningful input from this sector.
An issue not addressed is the need to have the same the same design of centre thwart, form of bracing of the centre board case and mast step web in the FRP hull. As these are now designed the FRP hull is favoured.
Similarly the proposal for two datum points does not reference one to the other which can be overcome by careful wording the Rule.
These are just a couple of issues and there are others.
I must concede it had become necessary to change the Rules to correct very haphazard administration of the Rules in the past and credit must be given to those who have started the process. Now it has fallen on this generation of Sabre sailors to ensure it is done properly.
The time has come for the Class to adopt a proper set of one-design principles and rules to strengthen our Class and make it more desirable than present to become part of our Class.
This can only happen if all members play their part in their respective State Associations and let their voice be heard.
Alan Wilson
HelterSkelter 1906I hope for the future of the Class that all Associations can require their Delegates to listen to the members and vote appropriately. My worry is that the majority of members are not concerned with the problems concerning the class and are happy if the boats look alike (despite being quite different). The class has a good following but this can be quickly eroded when older good quality entry boats are not competitive. This is happening to a lesser degree now and will become the norm if the post 2014 boats take over at the head of the fleet. Do we want this to happen?
I also understand the argument that the same situation may occur if boats are built to set plans but at least all post 2014 boats will be the same and winning will depend on ability in a level playing field.
HelterSkelter
Alan WilsonComments on Proposed Resolutions
As a Delegate I cannot recommend to my Association that the proposed resolutions relating to the Hull be accepted as they do not redress the real problems facing our Class but are reactionary to situations that have developed in the construction of hulls.
The problems have occurred simply because the Association will not address the real problem of not having dimensioned plans or hull lines plans which are essential for a ‘one design class’. These issues must be addressed and new Rules written based on true one-design principals, otherwise the Association will be continually putting forward Resolutions to combat the lack of proper plans.There are already two classes of boat in the class and if the proposed resolutions are passed, four classes will be created,
Pre 2014 wood
Post 2014 wood
Pre 2014 FRP
Post 2014 FRP.Sabre sailors, is this what we want? The class is said to be ‘cost conscious’ but consider the cost of converting a pre 2014 hull to post 2014 specifications.
Before the Rules are amended common sense dictates that as the Sabre is a one design Class (which it is not), it is time to have proper hull lines plans prepared. Such plans will require further Rules to be considered and would simplify building and measurement procedures.
As a Queensland Delegate and being strongly in favour of a strong Class and Class Rules I do not consider that reactionary adhoc amendments or any Rule changes involving the Hull should be made without the Association having hull lines plans prepared. It is apparent that a lot of the proposed changes are to stop people taking advantage of the ambiguities in the present Rules and until the Association has a solidly structured platform to work from it is premature to make such changes
HelterSkelter
While it all looks very nice, switching to a mylar sail has the disadvantage of a shorter lifespan than a dacron sails.
Would still love to try one though.
Are their any specifications available? Is it just a sail change, or is a new mast required. The current blank has some length left in it if they wish to look at a taller rig without changing the mast blank, and so no increase in cost to that aspect.
I would also suggest the people trialing the changes consider swapping the current Sabre Centreboard for a Optimist Centreboard. The slightly narrower board will tack /jybe easier, but the Opti board is longer, so deeper in the water.
In respect to control lines, I would try some form of end boom sheeting for the main sheet and clear it out of the centre of the boat. This would also serve to take the main sheet pressure off the middle of the boom.
Just my thoughts anyway
Merry christmas all
Peter Wilcox
I used Palownia for the stringers, from Port Phillip Blinds in Moorabbin.
Much lighter.
The Hardwood Gunwale caping is dependent on what colour you want.
Using the Palownia as much as I did elsewhere allowed me to use Jarrah and still came in aroung min weight on Fiona’s boat.
I prefer the Ally Tiller, easier to make and I’ve never had one break.
I’ve seen to many timber ones break at states and Nats.Damien,
I built my own Dollys using 32mm sqr stainless tube.
I you are interested, I can take some pics and email them to you. plus dimensions.
The road trailer was custom made to fit the dolly.
Regards . . .
OK all, before someone picks me up on the Vang comment, I need to remember to check older topics first, especially when I started it, and I would have found an answer.
If we are going to allow webbing strops and other variations of Vang attachment, I think the meathod of measuring needs to change to what was sugested in the other thread, use the bearing point, as I can make a strop set up that will effectively allow me to use the vang to put bend in the mast on the water.
you just move the bearing point aft on a very long strop and have the point nearest the mast in legal limits. Technically that would be within the rules as they are written.
May be add a sliding loop around the boom that you could position along the boom to change mast bend back to more of a vang effect when required.
Still believe a T-ball should be allowed. Our Heron has had a T-ball fitting on the same boom section (a 50mm section same as the sabre) for 7 years with no breakage problem. But we’ve bent two booms, and I’ve seen others break them on sabres that were half the age.
Damn,
I’ve seen people use them, never new they were named after a toilet.
I always just use Mk1 finger tension gauge when I rig Fiona’s boat and just ask SHMBO (She who must be obeyed) if she is happy.
Regards . . .
As long as it is of size, 50mm it believe, not sure of the tollerences it should be good.
Regards . . .
All,
Firstly, no disrespect to Phil J, I have lots of time and respect for him.
I think, looking at all the discussion on this topic, there is a clear need for the question on the mainsheet block posts to be finalised once and for all, and I think that it should go to a comittee decision (Sabre Assoc Rule 1.9)with input from the states before a final ruling is made.
Personally, I like Mike S’s reminder: ‘… a sailing dinghy that is simple in design and construction and relatively easy and inexpensive to build…’.
It is just another expense, and if you want one, and you cannot make this item yourself, you will have to find someone who will do it for you. That can be expensive, unless the association also starts producing them.
If the item does offer some form of performance enhancement, will it then also come down to the ‘haves’ and ‘have nots’.
The Sabre is supposed to be one design.
If a mainsheet block mounting extension is to be accepted, then there must be some form of uniform rules that govern the maximum height of some part of the block above the keel mounting timber, and if bracing the extension is legal, and if so, a statement on how/where.
Just to open up a can of worms, was anything sorted out in respect to boats that are not using the specified boom vang fitting as per the older construction manuals. I don’t have the latest construction manual, but the measuring rule does not appear to have changed, so I would expect that webbing strops, T-balls, and Saddles sticking out from inside booms are still not legal.
Can the Comittee, when it gets together next, sort this one out also.
Regards . . .
Hi guys,
For us numpties, who just wing it most of the time.
Can someone please explain Loos guage?
Regards . . .
Andrew,
The problem with a Sabre is not so much the thickness and final weight. You need to find a 50mm section that is of a grade of aluminium that will not bend in a good blow.
I saw a number of nicely bent booms at the last Vic states. This is the draw back of having a loose footed rig with the mainsheet near the centre of the boom.
Not sure where you are, but there is a mob in Moorabbin (Vic) – Litespars I think they are called, who supplies the section in higher tensile strenght grades of aluminium than what most of the chandlerys do. More expensive though. My wife has bent two booms of cheaper grade sections in her various boats.
Not sure what grade of aluminium the Association supplied sections are.
Regards . . .
Matt,
Out of curiosity, how much does a 1200×2400 sheet of ply weigh once you have laminated a veneer on to it.
I am curious. When I bought the ply for my current and next builds, I weighed about 60 sheets and took the 12 lightest.
I cannot recall the exact weights, but some I chose were almost down to 5kg / sheet, where as many of the heavier sheets were over 6kg per sheet and some near 7kg. All from the same bundle of about 95 sheets I went through. (rejected about 35 sheets due to cracks, delamination etc)
I also targeted sheets withvery swerly patterns as apposed to very straight grain.
A thought for a change of colour, has anyone tried putting a dye / wash through the ply.
Have seen some really good effects on some websites in the past, and am considering doing something similar for making a plywood tiled Uckers board – dying the tiles as required so that I don’t loose the wood grain. There are a big variety of colours – Reds, yellows, blues, greens – check them out at any good paint supply shop.
Regards . . .
Hi Slow Hand,
Sorry, I don’t know of dynacloth. I will have to check it out and get back to your with my thoughts on it.
Have been considering using a ‘Crows foot weave’ for some of the corner fillets joints though as it is far superior to standard weave in any area where you need the cloth to hold a bend while wet.
Saw a demo at the boat show in WA a couple of years ago.
Am trying to find a supplier with the lightest weight cloth it comes in (I’m told about 130gsm maybe lighter). I’ve only been able to find 200gsm + so far.
If you could get it in a 2oz equivalent, it would make a far stiffer hull than standard woven cloth, due to the way the crows foot is woven.
Regards . . .
