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On 15/2 I sent all states a suggestion from Victoria the we start one day later to permit a more leisurely trip to the titles from the more distant home states and sought some feedback that might guide Queensaland on finalising dates.
Victoria also thought that extending the series to eight days, Friday to Friday inclusive, would allow seven races in the afternoons when breezes are more reliable, NY day as a layday and mornings for resails.
Discussion in this forum would also be welcome!
Mike Simpson
Nat SecNic,
The cradle shape is a start, but each boat is, in my somewhat limited experience, slightly different and I spend a good deal of time fitting the supports to the boat with a spokeshave and a flap-wheel in my angle grinder, including cutting the supports to the angle at which the bottom intersects the bow support especially.
I try to trim them so there is no more than about 3mm variation between the boat and the support: this tolerance should be tighter if you use thin or hard padding.If you are handy with FRP, its probably easier to put the padding on the hull, back it up with a thin ply strip about 100mm wide then glass this onto the roughly shaped support. This system also facilitates fitting vertical(ish) risers up the sides of the hull which will hold the hull nicely in place.
Mike S
Nic
Be aware that, if you buy the McKay setup, do not tow your boat too far on the dolly as produced as, while it is OK for a beach dolly,
(a) the boat supports are not well matched to the Sabre hull shape, resulting in point loads at the keel.
(b) the “padding” (coarse hairy stuff) will abrade your paint.I recommend very careful shaping to match the hull at the support points and use of a heavy industrial felt to pad the boat. (You have to be careful about the felt holding sand as problem (b) can occur if the sand is not washed off before trailing. Others use all sorts of padding from closed-cell-foam camp mattress material to shade cloth and old woollen carpet.
Many use combinations to give padding with a smooth surface.Mike S
These matters were referred to by Phil Johnson (Nat Measurer) and John Dixon (Vic Measurer) and there are some proposals mooted to amend (in a minor way only) some of the rules and measurement limitations.
Issues like these can only be brought to a vote at an AGM through a formal resolution listed on the meeting agenda.
John D has indicated he is considering putting one forward for a Special General Meeting during the year.
This would result in Association members being consulted by their State Associations and the Delegates to the National Committee voting on the Motion/s to the Special GM with guidance from their states.
I do hope to post the Minutes of the AGM on the web site when I get my feet under the table!
Regards
Mike Simpson, Nat Sec.Andrew
Thanks for the results to date. Veeerrryy interesting!
I note that there are various scores shown for a DNF. These should be all 45 (one point more than the no. of entrants. Refer Appx A Clause A4.2).
I also see that there is no provision for a drop (or two??) in the Notice of Race. This means that Clause A2 applies – one drop regardless of the number of heats.
Any comments on these issues?
Good luck to all!
Mike S
James Frecheville & Tim Heaney in Paynesville are looking at this. You might ring them and see where the project stands.
(03) 5156 7085
Mike Simpson
“Fuss Pot” 168 & “Bluesette” 1682I am 92 kg and 1750 mm tall.
I am pleased to find I am more competitive than I anticipated.
My main handicap is my physical condition! (Knees gone from 30 odd years of OK sailing and general effects of aging showing in other areas, such as maintaining the rage!)
I initially found the boat uncomfortable in light breezes, but am now accommodating myself to screwing myself up in a lump in the centre of the boat.
The boat is a hoot in a breeze and worth it for that!
There are many days when the good littlies will beat the good biggies, but that is the cross we have to bear in maintaining our superb figures!
Mike Simpson
“Fuss Pot” 168 and “Bluesette” 1682What about stirring them up for a weekly race!
At ASC we conducted 17 races and two regattas over winter with an average of 11 Sabres starting.
Hope to see you on the water at GLYC soon!
Mike Simpson
“Fuss Pot” 168
“Bluesette” 1682I just went and measured mine – it’s 4.6 metres (15 feet) for a 4:1 purchase in the mainsheet system.
As I recall, it’s adequately long but if you feel the need for a 5:1 purchase, you will need about another metre.
Take care that the rope diameter is small enough for the pulleys used in the system!
Many Sabre sailors seem to have an alternate lighter (smaller diameter) mainsheet for very light days that would almost certainly be used in a 4:1 system. Of course the use of the lesser purchase and the smaller (and harder to hold) sheet will almost guarantee the breeze will come up to the point of being uncomfortable.
For your bottom block I strongly recommend a ratchet block ($85 to $100!!!) and you may want to rig it on a wire strop that raises it up to the height of the thwart so it leads smoothly when you are sitting forward, as when on the wind.
By the way, 631 isn’t all that old – my old boat is number 168 and, while she is showing her age, there are plenty of nice boats around in the 1, 2 & 300 number series.
Regards
Mike Simpson, 168 and 1682Jack
If you have exposed bare timber, it seems to me you must have knocked off some of the glass reinforcing tape in the accident.
Can I suggest that you should grind down the chine over the whole of the damaged area to (just) expose bare timber such that you can restore the taped seam with some glass tape and epoxy resin.
Take care to feather out the repair bed at each end so the new glass overlaps the old and original strength is substantially maintained.
Round off the sharp edge of the chine so the glass will lay over the joint of the bottom and side without tending to lift at the peak of the bend; this will help in avoiding any little air pockets along the chine.
Sand the set epoxy to take off any high spots, and restore the sharp edge of the chine with (preferably) epoxy filler.
Then spend the next three weeks trying to match the paint!
I hope this helps.
