[asaj7265583042]

Hi Charlotte.

Thanks for that. The turps in the epoxy is interesting. I have a thinning agent (bote cote )
Cheers

[asaj7265583042]

Hi Murray.

Yes, that was plan B. None in stock up here at the moment so I thought I would seal the full size slot with epoxy while I was sealing the chain plate cut outs. Funny thing, a New Zealand ad for the bailer had a cut out of 340 x 105 or something. Obviously I didn’t pay attention to that advice !!
49 days Murray , not that I’m counting
She won’t be ready for a bit. Have they still got that old dog of a sabre at the club I could use ?
It’s great you will be there Murray to help me tune. I plan to do the states and 2015/16 nationals too.
Cheers

[asaj7265583042]

Thanks Jack.

I now understand your point. The thread of a sealed screw will seal out water where a bolt is a clearance fit through the wood relying on the silicon for a seal.
I’m well over weight although I don’t know how but I’m putting it down to Darwin humidity. It’s out of control up here now with the build up to the wet season so lucky I’m finished !
Who knows what she will end up weighing but she’s tough.
I could just whack a bit of cedar timber underneath the already installed stiffeners to get about 20 mm of screw purchase.

Regards

[asaj7265583042]

Tell me about it. I used Sika for the inspection hatches. Sealant everywhere but at least no cut hands from screws that I got from old boats while sponging out water from the tanks.
Ok, I used 4 mm ply but large pieces so the load is spread . It’s mostly shear load anyway so not a big concern.
Regards

[asaj7265583042]

Thanks Jack. I’m intending to bolt ? I thought I might use marine Sika. The under deck stiffeners are quite large around 500 by 150 . What do you think ?
Regards

[asaj7265583042]

Thanks Jack. Can you expand on the comment with the epoxy assisted install. So you drill a pilot hole for the screw and then ………. ( assume timber hull with 4 mm ply stiffeners under the foredeck for strength ).

Kind regards

John NT soon to be port Phillip

[asaj7265583042]

Hi Jack.

Thanks for the link. I’m going to put the cleats on the deck above the centre case bulkhead. If I use the S11 do I use the 13 deg. angle riser with it ?
Cheers

[asaj7265583042]

Good advice youngi. RF488 would hold my austral 20 mast up. Will check out those fittings recommended by you tomoz at Darwin yacht shop. Cheers

[asaj7265583042]

Just an update. All varnished and painted. Thanks to all who have assisted in the build.
Regards

[asaj7265583042]

Hello Waynet.

With my limited knowledge and interpretation of the construction guide, stiffening will be limited to glassing your proposed hull inside and out as I have done. I used 86gm glass mat (2oz) to do this. I’m not sure there is any other way. Good luck with your build should you head this way.
Regards John

[asaj7265583042]

Hey guys.

Haha, yes 411 is the filler, sorry !
With my skills or lack of, I can guarantee anything outside of the tolerances is a mistake not a go fast addition.
I bogged up 4 mm where I was low so all good now. The boat has been faired tonight and glassed from stern to web bulkhead on the outer hull. My only concern is why I was out of tolerance on one of the 3 stations as I felt it would just fall into the middle of the tolerance range as panels were cut millimetre accurate to the supplied templates ?
Hopefully painting on Thursday after I re establish the chines on Wednesday night.

Regards John

[asaj7265583042]

Hi youngi.

Wow, that was some reply. You know your boats and techniques for sure!
You lost me at hello but I kind of get your drift. For a hack like me, you just build it and hope it measures as I don’t really understand all the properties of ply as you do.
I do take your point on building up the transom datum as this basically tilts the rocker reference line forward which should give me the couple of mm I need. As I was fairing with west 311 last night I added a little extra at the 3048 mm point which should also help as long as I am careful not to rub it off. I intend to glass the bottom after work also.
As for weight removal, I guess I’m too far advanced now short of doing a less is more paint system on her.
Thanks a bunch for your great advice !
Regards John NT

[asaj7265583042]

Hello Harold.

It’s good to know I’m not the only slow builder out there !!!
Could you tell me in your experiences what weights you’ve seen over the years, say lightest to heaviest in timber. As youngi mentioned on the other thread, I’ve been banished to the cave in the tropics so I’m going to struggle weight wise. I reckon I could build a light boat but then I wouldn’t know if it would last.
On a side topic, rocker, I’m 4 mm out on the 3048 station. I can bog it to get it back into the 35 to 50 mm range (I’m 54 mm ATM) but would be playing with a nice curve. How does a measurer view this ?
Cheers

[asaj7265583042]

Hey youngi.

Thanks mate re the sabre build. Taking a while ( not sure where they get 40 hours from ! I’ve sanded for that long !!)

Your method sounds good. I hadn’t thought of that way. It does sound accurate the way you do it. The weather (wet build up) has started here so the race is on to seal the hull before it gains weight. She won’t be a light boat but will be sailing when I’m pushing Daisy’s.

Regards john NT

[asaj7265583042]

Hi all.
An update as of today 9th September. Lids are all on, thwart and stiffeners in and hiking area of seats glassed in 2 oz mat.

Regards

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