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- This topic has 5 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 10 years, 6 months ago by asaj7265583042.
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April 28, 2014 at 3:41 pm #6293asaj7265583042Participant
Hello All.
Not that I am anywhere near this stage, but I’m interested in the procedure used to glass the bottom 4 mm panels.
I’ve read that I should lay the glass mat out dry over the panels then pour the epoxy resin/hardener mixture into the centre and squeegee out towards the edges. I am, however curious as to how many coats of resin to put on (bearing in mind weight). Is one adequate ? What have others done ?
I also understand you would need to fully sand and prepare the glassed surface once the initial first coat had cured if you were to add a second coat. All advice appreciatedCheers John
NT
April 28, 2014 at 7:41 pm #7683Paul MatthewsParticipantI too am very interested in reading this advice.
April 29, 2014 at 12:41 am #7684BruceGParticipantI have never built a Sabre and I do not know the construction rules well. Yet.
Standard practice is to lay the glass in position, stategically pour the resin on to the glass and squeegee it over the entire area.1 coat only. Many layers of glass can be applied in one coat. A special cloth known commonly as peel ply can be layed over wet resin and peeled off when set to leave a suface that can be bonded or painted without sanding.
If you are new at this get someone with experience to help you. I am sure there will be Youtube videos on this subject also. Practice makes perfect.
Big tip. Get a large box of disposable Vinyl gloves like they use when preparing food. I would use a few pairs every job. Cardboard on the floor to catch drips and spills is a good idea too.
April 29, 2014 at 8:43 am #7685asaj7265583042ParticipantThank you Aten.
I did some research last night and will use your suggestion however I will use bote cote which doesn’t exhibit amine blush negating the peel ply.
RegardsApril 30, 2014 at 12:59 pm #7686kakaoParticipantJohn
I have done this with some advice from experts and the good publications from Botecote and West. I used Botecote and had no trouble with painting. Putting the resin on the ply first is a technique used where the work is at an angle and the glass needs to be held in place. It is not easy to get it flat that way. Spread the resin out over the glass with the cheap plastic spreaders you can buy in Bunnings. Make sure the resin is as thin as you can get it as resin is heavy. I was advised to glass the panels with just one layer before assembling them but to stop at the centrecase bulkhead so as not to reduce the bendability.
When you get to glassing the joints make sure you fillet the corners first as is shown in the West booklet. This makes a very much stronger joint. I know I tested it.
HaroldMay 1, 2014 at 7:42 am #7687asaj7265583042ParticipantThank you Harold. That is good advice. I will check at bunnings for those scrapers you mention. I agree on the resin comment in that you really only need to make the glass transparent and any extra is just waste/weight.
While I have you, have you had a chance to look at those front centre case bulkhead seat profile patterns ??
Appreciate your help.
Kind regards
John
NT -
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