Home › Forums › Development & Design › Boat Construction › Best Cleat for Sabre
- This topic has 12 replies, 4 voices, and was last updated 10 years ago by latanyaragsdale.
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October 13, 2014 at 12:06 am #6318rochelledover74Participant
Hi all
The Servo Cleat is again available in Australia at:
http://www.thesailboatshop.com.au/home.htmlThis is not olny the lightest, toughest cleat on the market, it is also the cheapest. It comes with the mounting screews and fairlead for only $20 each and the angle base is $2.60, this represents a great saving on the cost of other cleats. I have used them for over 20 years and nothing out lasts them or works as well, my old 27ft boat still has the same set I put on over 20 years ago and still works great. I have used them on all my Sabres and many Sabres in WA use them and are very pleased with the results. Patented Servo design allows a line to cleat with only slight downward pressure and without the need to pull more line through. If you are building a Sabre, then take from me these are not only the best cleat, but will save you money.
“S11 with 13 degree riser for control cleats and S22 for mainsheet deck cleats if you use them.”
October 13, 2014 at 6:06 am #7763BruceGParticipantCan buy a carton of good beer with the savings. Thanks Jack.
October 15, 2014 at 12:03 pm #7764asaj7265583042ParticipantHi Jack.
Thanks for the link. I’m going to put the cleats on the deck above the centre case bulkhead. If I use the S11 do I use the 13 deg. angle riser with it ?
CheersOctober 15, 2014 at 1:43 pm #7765rochelledover74Participant@magic232 wrote:
Hi Jack.
Thanks for the link. I’m going to put the cleats on the deck above the centre case bulkhead. If I use the S11 do I use the 13 deg. angle riser with it ?
CheersYes you do, I always screw and epoxy my cleats on ( I buy longer screws than come with them to accomadate the riser, I think they are 8 gauge), in the wooden boat I had some left over ply from rudder box for under the cleats. Glass boats if you have timber already installed, then drill for the screw and counter sink the hole, this prevents gel coat cracking and allows space for more epoxy glue. They have never leaked unlike silicon and bolts, best of luck
October 16, 2014 at 10:26 am #7766asaj7265583042ParticipantThanks Jack. Can you expand on the comment with the epoxy assisted install. So you drill a pilot hole for the screw and then ………. ( assume timber hull with 4 mm ply stiffeners under the foredeck for strength ).
Kind regards
John NT soon to be port Phillip
October 16, 2014 at 11:40 am #7767rochelledover74Participant@magic232 wrote:
Thanks Jack. Can you expand on the comment with the epoxy assisted install. So you drill a pilot hole for the screw and then ………. ( assume timber hull with 4 mm ply stiffeners under the foredeck for strength ).
Kind regards
John NT soon to be port Phillip
What I would do here, is use 2 more 4 mm piece of ply as well, so in total you have 16mm, this will spread the load over the deck. then drill your pilot hole for the screw, put some epoxy on the screw shaft and screw it down. The only bolts I use are for rudder and foot straps saddles in front tank, but I still use epoxy other than inspection port (or you could remove the inspection port). Epoxy allows for easy removal of fittings, more strength and will never leak. Hope this helps.
October 17, 2014 at 8:45 am #7768asaj7265583042ParticipantThanks Jack. I’m intending to bolt ? I thought I might use marine Sika. The under deck stiffeners are quite large around 500 by 150 . What do you think ?
RegardsOctober 17, 2014 at 9:46 am #7769BruceGParticipantSika is great but the white marine sika tends to discolour. I have been told to use “actetic cure silicone” for white sealant. The black sika should be good for the black Servo cleats. Mask the job though. the sika can get very messy.
How thick are the stiffeners?October 17, 2014 at 10:53 am #7770asaj7265583042ParticipantTell me about it. I used Sika for the inspection hatches. Sealant everywhere but at least no cut hands from screws that I got from old boats while sponging out water from the tanks.
Ok, I used 4 mm ply but large pieces so the load is spread . It’s mostly shear load anyway so not a big concern.
RegardsOctober 19, 2014 at 12:21 pm #7771rochelledover74Participant@magic232 wrote:
Thanks Jack. I’m intending to bolt ? I thought I might use marine Sika. The under deck stiffeners are quite large around 500 by 150 . What do you think ?
RegardsMy question is why bolt?
Screws with epoxy will never leak, boats with silicon will one day leak, so it is a no brainer for me.
How heavy is your boat?
I found I had to put larger timbers under my screws to bring the boat up to min weight 38Kg, even after glassing the boat both outside and in.October 20, 2014 at 10:05 am #7772asaj7265583042ParticipantThanks Jack.
I now understand your point. The thread of a sealed screw will seal out water where a bolt is a clearance fit through the wood relying on the silicon for a seal.
I’m well over weight although I don’t know how but I’m putting it down to Darwin humidity. It’s out of control up here now with the build up to the wet season so lucky I’m finished !
Who knows what she will end up weighing but she’s tough.
I could just whack a bit of cedar timber underneath the already installed stiffeners to get about 20 mm of screw purchase.Regards
October 22, 2014 at 3:08 am #7773BruceGParticipantIf you drill the bolt holes undersize about 0.5mm (5/32 4.2mm for a 3/16 4.7mm bolt) you remove the clearance issue and it makes it really easy to do the nuts up as the bolt is already tight before you start the nuts. Also very good way to secure a fitting without needing someone else to help.
December 6, 2014 at 1:43 am #7774latanyaragsdaleParticipantA limited number of Blue coloured S11 Servo Cleats are available from The Sailboat Shop.
[attachment=0:1z7s1bz0]spring24.jpg[/attachment:1z7s1bz0]
The Sailboat Shop has also supplied a complete set of Servo cleats to fit out a Sabre to the SA Association for the 2014/2015 Nationals at ASC. Fair winds to all competing.
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